Small Foot Print

It’s 6 AM and I am freezing in my garage. The sun is just starting to come up. My hands are getting numb but I have at least an hours worth of work ahead of me. Sixteen boxes of produce need to be divided between 18 people without frost damage in this below freezing temperature. I am most concerned about the lettuces, herbs and bananas. The birds are shattering madly announcing the first day of spring. I hear a loud unusual screech and go look to see 2 ospreys perched, high up, in the tall oak tree at the end of the snow covered street. They are back to nest. For some, spring is like clockwork.

About 2 months ago I drove to Oceanport, 2 towns south, to pick-up my produce share from the local Purple Dragon co-op leader. She too had a make shift gourmet garage. Women were milling about, busy signing in, writing checks and sharing their recipes with each other. It became very clear to me that we all shared a common philosophy of leaving a smaller footprint, creating a more sustainable lifestyle for ourselves and our families while supporting our local farmers in their effort to keep biodiversity alive in our food chain. I brought my bounty home eager to see what this cold winter would provide for comfort. It was seasonal with a few hidden surprises here and there. The heirloom yellow carrots were sweet and delicious. Next week, among the expected staples of Pennsylvanian potatoes, California broccoli and New York state apples I found a little sack of organic sweet peas. They tasted like candy and we ate them all right then and there.

It is 11 AM, by now. Most of the women have picked up their shares. I was so hungry, I couldn't even think, so I made something quick. The red Swiss chard was crisp and fresh as if I had just cut it from my own garden. I sautéed it up with a little garlic. I had local farm eggs that were also tempting me. I decided to make a frittata with the addition of a little, Capriccio de Capra, a firm, salty goat cheese from Spain. It was just what I needed.

We’ll it’s finally dinner time and I rummage through my produce. I find myself with a conspicuous abundance of organic celery. I just wanted to enjoy it raw and fresh so I came up with the idea of a Southern Italian style Caponata, very satisfying on top of classic European rye bread, rubbed with garlic and extra virgin olive oil. I will also add in a little Granny Smith apple and parsley from my delivery. Ah, so I raise my glass and toast to all the wonderful organic farmers who grew my delicious fruits and vegetables ( and to the vineyards that harvested my delicious biodynamic fermented grapes). Might I suggest a glass of Clemens Busch Vom Roten Schiefer, Reisling 2006, from the Mosel region in Germany, when you raise your glass to the welcoming of spring? Talk about a perfect combination of food and wine.

Recipe for Celery-Apple Caponata on Country French Rye Bread
1 C. Fine dice organic celery, inner & outer stalks, leaves left whole
1 Whole apple, match stick cut, Baton, etc.
2 white Spanish anchovy fillets, rough chopped
¼ C. each Plump golden raisins & rinsed capers
3 T. Toasted pine nuts
2 T. Lemon juice to pour over apples + zest of 1 whole lemon , chopped
3 T. Rough chopped very fresh parsley
2 tsp. dark brown sugar
3 T. of your best XVOO and more for later
Tiny splash of white wine vinegar
Sea salt
Fresh ground black pepper
optional; pinch chili flakes
1 garlic clove to rub on the toasted rye bread

Caponata typically has an agro dolce quality to it, what the Italians refer to as the delicate balance between the sweet and sour, in savory foods. I am not going to cook the Caponata but the element is present. Less is more, so adjust slowly and taste! Presentation wise you can go either way. Slice nice celery chevrons for a more rustic look or practice your knife skills and get to work on your fine dice technique, as I did, for fun. I let the flavors sit and macerate for a couple of hours (after my first taste) and the result was phenominal.

And The Nominees Are...
On one last note I would like to completely change the subject. If you ever want to get a chef talking mention the James Beard Awards. I suggest you take the preliminary list, (recently sent out) fold it over and careful slide the paper across the table, making sure you have located all the exit signs before doing so. I personally am not offended by the rapid fire expletives; after all I grew up in New Jersey. It is always good to get a little feed back from your peers. It doesn’t matter if you’re on the list or off the list you have an opinion about everyone on the list or off the list. Congratulations to everyone on and off the list who survived a very tough restaurant year!